David's Diary: Saturday, May 25, 2002

Corsica: Sartène and Ajaccio

Because we rented our car yesterday at noon we have the morning to do some more exploring. We are off the boat early and drive south to the hillside town of Sartène. Despite its location far from the coast, pirates from Algeria raided Sartène in 1583 and carried off 400 townspeople. Such raids continued into the 18th century.

We stopped at the main square in Sartène and visited Église Ste-Marie. Inside hang a 32kg cross and a 14kg chain. Each year on the eve of Good Friday a local penitent dress in red robes carries the cross and drags the chain through the town. The cross is huge and I cannot imagine how anyone manages to carry it, let alone walk along with a 14kg chain strapped to your ankle. Everyone watching the ceremony is curious about whom the penitent is. Locals who hope to make up for a sinful act apply to the local parish priest who chooses the penitent.

David

All of this seemed far away as the sunlight filled the church from windows set high in the nave. We exited the church and explored the narrow streets surrounding the central square. As it was only mid-morning, we stopped for a Saturday morning croissant, café au lait, and juice for the kids. With all of the school and traveling we have been doing we haven't taken many opportunities to just chill out, sit at a café, and watch the world go by.

After our coffee we explored more of Sartène. We bought some local wine, sampled the olives, and bought a few presents. But as noon approached it was time to get the car back and we drove back to Propriano with the feeling that we had already seen and done a lot today.

Ajaccio

With the car safely returned, we were back at that boat and off the dock by 12:30. Our goal today is Ajaccio further up the western coast of Corsica. We sailed a bit, but then had to motor until by late afternoon we approached the fortified walls of the old town. We were tied up in the Vieux Port (i.e., Old Port) just after 5:00. As the boys washed the boat down, Karalee and Jocelyn scouted out the old town, and I made dinner for the crew on Dragonsinger.